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Why Do Our Sewing Lines Keep Stopping Because the Zips, Labels or Buttons Have Not Arrived?

Garment lines stall when zips, labels and buttons arrive late or short. We build a trims tracker that works out needs per order before cutting.

Updated 3 min readBy SpiderHunts Technologies

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Quick answer — TL;DR

Lines stop for trims because trim requirements are worked out late, by hand, from the tech pack, and nobody checks that everything has arrived before the order is cut. We build a trims tracker that calculates every trim needed per order from the bill of materials, raises and follows up supplier orders, records what has been received, and blocks an order from being released to cutting until its trims are in.

Everything is ready except the main labels

The fabric is in, the cut is done and the bundles are on the line. On the second morning the supervisor comes up: no main labels for the second colourway, and only half the care labels. The label supplier says the artwork approval came through late, which is true, because the brand approved it by replying to an email nobody forwarded.

The line switches to another order, then switches back when the labels arrive. Both orders lose time.

Trims are treated as small things

Trims are cheap compared with fabric, so they get less attention. But a garment can have a dozen separate trims (main label, size label, care label, swing tag, zip, buttons, poppers, elastic, tape, thread, polybag, carton), each from a different supplier, some needing brand approval, all needed before the line can finish.

  • Requirements are worked out by hand from the tech pack, after the order is confirmed.
  • Wastage allowances for trims are applied inconsistently.
  • Brand-nominated trims need approvals that sit in someone's inbox.
  • Deliveries are received without being checked against what was ordered.
  • Nobody checks all trims are in before an order is cut.

What a missing zip costs

A stopped line is expensive, and switching styles to fill the gap costs efficiency on both. Garments finished without labels have to be reopened later, which risks damage and takes time. Late trims push the ex-factory date, and if the brand has air freight clauses, can turn a sea shipment into an expensive flight. And the merchandiser spends their week chasing small suppliers by phone.

Over-ordering to be safe is the usual workaround, and it has its own cost. Boxes of branded labels and zips in a discontinued colour build up in the trims store, paid for and never used, because nobody trusts the quantities enough to order exactly.

The trims tracker we build

  1. Each style's bill of trims is held with the quantity per garment and your wastage allowance, entered from the tech pack once and checked by the merchandiser.
  2. When an order is confirmed, the tracker calculates trim quantities per colour and size, including size labels by size.
  3. Purchase orders to trim suppliers are drafted from those quantities, for a person to check and send, and any trim that needs brand approval is listed with its approval status.
  4. Supplier confirmations and delivery dates are recorded, and anything overdue is flagged with the order it will hold up.
  5. Goods in records what arrived against what was ordered, and short deliveries are raised immediately.
  6. An order shows as ready for cutting only when fabric and all trims are in, or when a person decides to release it anyway and records why.
StageHow it slips nowWith the tracker
Working out quantitiesBy hand, lateCalculated at order confirmation
Brand approvalsIn an inboxListed with status per trim
Supplier follow-upPhone calls when it is lateOverdue items flagged against the order
ReceivingSigned for, not checkedChecked against the purchase order
Release to cuttingWhen fabric is inWhen fabric and trims are in

Lines that keep running

The merchandiser sees the missing labels two weeks before cutting, when a call to the supplier can still fix it. The cutting room stops releasing orders that will stall on the line. Short deliveries are caught at goods in rather than at the machine. The planner can load lines knowing the work that goes in can be finished.

Checklist

  • Lines have stopped or switched styles for lack of trims.
  • Garments have been finished without labels and reopened later.
  • Trim quantities are worked out by hand from the tech pack.
  • Nobody checks all trims are in before cutting.
  • Brand trim approvals get lost in email.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

The questions readers ask us after this guide.

Still have a question?

Ask us directly — a senior engineer will get back to you.

Ask about your project

Can it handle trims the brand nominates and supplies?

Yes. Brand-supplied trims are tracked the same way, with the brand as the supplier, so you can see what they still owe you.

Does it place orders with suppliers automatically?

It drafts them. A person checks and sends, because trim orders often need a quick judgement about minimums and wastage.

We already have an ERP with a BOM. Do we need this?

Possibly not. If the ERP holds trims properly, we may only add the supplier follow-up and the release check. We will say so if that is the case.

What do you need from us?

A few tech packs with their trim lists, recent trim purchase orders, and an example of an order that stopped for trims.

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